Edinburgh

‘This profusion of eccentricities, this dream in masonry and living rock is not a drop scene in a theatre, but a city in the world of reality.’
- Robert Louis Stevenson

A Walk to Cramond Island

April 9, 2013

photo 5Finally some sun. Last week we took a trip out to Cramond Island, a walk that depends on the tides. When the tide goes out, you can go straight out to the island, but you have to make sure you head back before the waves come back and cut you off. Walking across the wide sands with the tide far out at either side of you, you feel like Moses, or a King Canute who wasn’t all mouth and no trousers.

And there’s an ice cream van on nice days. And a pub. It’s just outside of Edinburgh, but once on top of the island’s hill you can see the countryside for miles.

cramond 3

cramond 4

(More on my little black and white companion, pictured above, to come soon.)

cramond 1

cramond 6

The walk was a kind of tribute to summer, which all of a sudden (after the recent snowfalls) feels just around the corner. In the pub afterwards I poured two small bottles of Diet Coke into one glass, extravagantly summery. But I wore a scarf, too, as a compromise.

cramond 5

 

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A Walk to Dean Village

March 4, 2013

what will people say?

I noticed the above windowpane etching at the Inverleith House gallery, at the Botanic Gardens in Edinburgh last week.  I don’t know why it’s there, or what it means. It didn’t seem to be part of the exhibition and it was easy to miss. But it was a treasure to find on a walk last week, following the Water of Leith along towards Dean Village.

It’s not a straightforward route. Some of the signs are a bit Lewis Carroll.

I mean, which would you rather? Follow the river, or avoid the steps? We chose to follow the river because it sounded more optimistic and romantic. But it turned out that path actually ended in a disused industrial scrapyard and we had to turn back. So I’m not sure what kind of meaningful life message you should draw from that.

Quite a lot of the Water of Leith path is industrial, or a bit of a wasteland. It’s not a verdant oasis all the way along, by any means. But it has its moments.

And then a cut through the Botanics, pausing the admire the world’s largest hedge. Apparently.

I dunno, what do you think? Personally I reckon I’ve seen bigger.

I don’t want to jinx it, but… I think it might be spring.

After getting lost, walking up some steep hills and steps, short of breath and even shorter of temper, we eventually made it to Dean Village. It was once a cluster of watermills, but the industry’s gone, leaving a bundle of mismatched old buildings behind.

The name comes from the old word ‘dene’, which means deep valley… and, well, you definitely notice the ‘deep’ part when you’re coming back up. Or, more accurately, your legs and lungs notice, if you are me.

We found the above in Dean Cemetery, a place where the dead attempt to outdo each other for eternity with their fancy graves. This looked like a winner to me, but lots of them had engravings of the deceased’s face on the headstone and their earthly occupation – eg ‘ANATOMIST’ – written in big letters underneath.

They were almost all from the nineteenth century, which was apparently not such a good century for humility in Edinburgh.

Millstones? What a walk for a cold, bright morning right at the thin end of February. And, something I didn’t expect: Edinburgh talks to you as you go along, giving you things to think about, written into the windows and walls. It’s actually fairly chatty, for a city.

Definitely going to start spelling ‘onlye’ like that.

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Doughnuts come to Edinburgh

February 20, 2013

It’s finally happened. The people of Edinburgh have found something they love more than deep fried Mars bars. And it’s even stickier.

But doughnuts taste so GOOD. Last week Krispy Kreme opened its first ever Scottish store, on the outskirts of Edinburgh. I can’t remember the last time something in the city was hyped so much – free doughnuts were given out on street corners in the lead-up to opening, and on opening day itself there were super-long queues and traffic tailbacks of up to a mile around the shop.

And on its first day of trading, the brand new Krispy Kreme ‘doughnut theatre’ store took £60,000 of people’s money. I mean. You could buy a flat for that.

Doughnut hours begin at 7am. So this morning we set the alarm early, picked up a couple of bleary-eyed friends and drove deep into the West of Edinburgh in search of some breakfast sugar. I’m not sure we’ll have a tooth left between us by the end of the day.

We did keep wondering why they’d chosen to build it at Hermiston Gait, at least half an hour’s drive from central Edinburgh. Maybe it’s an American thing? Driving out of town to a big retail park to buy doughnuts. Those crazy Americans. Incidentally the store is also a drive-thru. (It is quite painful for me to spell ‘through’ like that, but apparently we must).

I’m not sure it is the kind of place to which you would make a weekly trip. That’s probably just as well, given that the last thing Edinburgh needs is a spike in its obesity rates… delicious though it would be.

They gave us hats and everything.

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Overwintering

December 5, 2012

I often worry that a bad winter might finish me off. I’ve read too many Victorian novels about winter’s ‘icy hand’ closing around the throats of the very young or very old — and then they’re found days later, rot suspended by refridgeration, frowning stiffly into a bundle of rags.

As for me, I’m definitely one of society’s weaklings: there is, for example, a small cut on my left nostril that re-opens with a sting each November. And I complain about it for three months solid. That’s just a glimpse into how pathetic both I and my face can be.

You may be like me and feel, too, as if winter makes you smaller, sleepier, more susceptible. I find it almost impossible to get out of bed in the dark. It makes me wish I were a hedgehog — nobody asks them to take a shower before dawn every day, under unforgiving CFLs.

Luckily there are ways, even for us wannabe hedgehogs, of feeling that you might just make it to see another snowdrop. I have very recently learned to enjoy winter, and to think of it as something to love instead of to endure. At the risk of stating the obvious, it takes a hefty supply of jumpers, intriguingly spiced teas and fat novels set deep in candlelit history. Something else that helps is a pair of excellent pyjamas, and a good line in hearty vegetable stews (the secret is cumin and plenty of pepper).

You can’t live in Edinburgh and not like winter. Even though it scares me, and I do worry about being found frozen in a bundle of rags like an old lady in a novel, it thrills me too. Lots of bloggers like autumn, and I do too, but I’m a convert now. It’s all about Jack Frost.

 Between the woods and frozen lake
The darkest evening of the year.
- Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening, Robert Frost

(mugs from Slightly Foxed and Anthropologie; fox brooch from Lea Stein)

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#WoohooBuckaroo!

December 3, 2012

Do you remember Buckaroo? Operation? Hungry Hippos? Weren’t they all awesome? Last week I was lucky enough to find out how great they are all over again at #WoohooBuckaroo, an evening of retro board games, drinks and sweeties, courtesy of the lovely Zoe from Conversation Pieces and Google+ Local Edinburgh.

I really like what they’re doing actually, organising fun events in the city and encouraging people to use Google+. To go along I had to write a few online reviews of local places like pubs and cafes, which anyone can do, and then you can go along to a slightly wacky evening like this and meet other people in Edinburgh who like retro fun and games. This one was in Boda Bar, a very cosy place to spend a school night.

And, wow, I was rusty. For someone who used to kick ass at things like Operation and Tetris, I’m not so hot on the good old games any more. I learned that Buckaroo scares the hell out of me, Hungry Hippos is very, very noisy (and your boyfriend will accuse you of cheating even when you’re losing), and getting the little plastic broken heart out of the Operation patient without his nose lighting up is impossible.

But on the bright side, I got to indulge my dormant but serious love heart addiction. Why did they ever go out of fashion?

Oh, and actually I do still rock at Tetris. Though I’m not so sure that’s something to be proud of these days…

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November in Pictures

December 1, 2012

1. winter sun 2. glasgow botanics
3. theatrical dinner at the traverse 4. giant snowman at ocean terminal
5. ghost cupcake  6. comedy at the stand
7.  walking to the sheep heid at duddingston 8. an edinburgh book sculpture
8. free cream doughnuts 9. spoken word for pussy riot

It was a busy month! Hello, December. I’m looking forward to your roaring fires and your Christmas chocolates.

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Tachemob Flashmob

November 13, 2012

Today in Edinburgh, a small but determined group of moustaches gathered outside St Giles’ Cathedral. They brought some people with them, and those people also brought some of their favourite Robert Louis Stevenson passages to read aloud.

It’s because today is Robert Louis Stevenson Day, and there have been lots of events all over the city in celebration of one of Edinburgh’s favourite writers (though we do have quite a lot of favourites…). Today marks the anniversary of RLS’ birthday, which was 13th November until he gave it away to a little girl as a present. I was wandering through town on my lunch break in search of sandwiches when I passed a little gaggle of moustachioed literature enthusiasts, including local MPs and Edinburgh City of Literature officials (they may be official, but they’re also pretty friendly), all reading their favourite bits of Stevenson’s writing to each other as the clock struck one.

I hadn’t come prepared. I didn’t have any of Stevenson’s work to hand or a hairy lip. So here’s one of the bits of RLS I’ve read that I especially like, in homage to him on his ex-birthday (and also to Mis A H Ide, to whom this birthday now belongs). It’s from ‘The Vagabond’:

Let the blow fall soon or late,
Let what will be o’er me;
Give the face of earth around,
And the road before me.
Wealth I ask not, hope, nor love,
Nor a friend to know me.
All I ask, the heaven above
And the road below me.

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A Trip to Pomegranate

November 2, 2012

(top photo from the Pomegranate website. instagrams from yours truly)

Pomegranate on Antigua Street is such a fun restaurant. A little while ago we all piled in, my whole family, to cover one of their bright pink tables with platefuls of their colourful hot and cold mezze and bottles of sparkling elderflower. We spent an afternoon trying out spices, sweets and citrus scents in the sunshine, under rows of pink and blue stained glass lanterns.

Middle Eastern food from around Lebanon, Morocco, Saudi Arabia, Iraq and Iran is the theme. In among the general spread I nabbed some mouthfuls of batata harra (little chunks of potato fried in coriander, chilli and garlic, but so lively that I think they might have had a good squirt of lime in there too), a healthy helping of hummus and some simple lemony chicken wings called baly merishke.

The desserts (pictured up top) are just as cute as the mezze plates, especially the nutty baklawa and pink rosewater cupcakes. We didn’t have room to try all of their sweet things, so next time I’ll make a beeline for the lokum and the sharia… what’s not to like about spiral nests of honey soaked filo pastry and nuts?

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Memories of Summer

November 1, 2012

August on Film: James, Alex and George visited; the Edinburgh Festivals happened; lots of Sunday brunches in Nobles; Aperol Spritz and its weird promotional glasses seemed to be everywhere; and there were lots of parties and plays and comedy shows and dinners out.

I only recently got these photos that I took over the summer developed. It’s nice to have a sudden reminder of August, especially wrapped up in crisp white packets from the camera shop.

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October in Edinburgh

October 30, 2012

…and some bonus Glasgow at the end!

1. running shoes 2. autumn in the graveyard
3. antique map, newly hung in our flat 4. hazelnut tea at the konditorei
5. sunday morning coffee 6. book week scotland launch party
7. princes street at night 8. starbucks
9. horse sculptures 10. pacific quay

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